“If Life Gets Too Hard, There’s Always the Ocean”
US and UK army vets, wounded physically and mentally on the
dry battlefields of Iraq and Afghanistan are finding deep healing by getting
wet, specifically surfing. One third of
all vets suffer from Post-Traumatic Stress Disorders, but organizations like
Warrior Surf are helping vets learn to trust, breath, focus and even get a good
night’s sleep, by surfing together.
In a new film, “Resurface” by Josh Izenberg (available on
Netflix) one vet, double amputee Bobby Lane, says, “When I came back from Iraq,
I started drinking a lot to help me with those issues, memories, pain. Then I was just drinking to get to sleep, but
sometimes you don’t want to close your eyes.”
Bobby had never surfed, but joining Warrior Surf helped him find peace.
“After that first wave I have such an overwhelming respect
for the ocean, it is so gentle and so fierce.
When I caught that wave, I felt like a part of me died and I felt like I
was reborn. Now I see it, if life gets
too hard, there’s always the ocean.”
Warrior Surf was founded by another veteran having a hard
time learning to live again after Iraq. A
surfer before the war, when he went back to the sea he could calm down, trust,
breath. His therapist had already
suggested a support group with other vets, and when he told his group about
surfing they wanted in. They found
surfing teachers who were vets and could understand their challenges. Soon their families wanted to join in. A new healing community was born.
I first learned about Warrior Surf and other groups like it
from the book Blue Mind by Wallace J Nichols, an intriguing celebration
of “your brain on water.” He recounts
the many scientific studies in neuroscience, psychology and sociology about the
healing power of water. Simply living
near the ocean, spending time in any kind of water, or even painting your room
blue not only improves happiness, creativity and reduces stress, but actually can
heal. Nichols has listed all the peer reviewed research studies, therapy
programs and medical endorsers in a project called “Blue Mind Rx.” http://www.wallacejnichols.org/116/1098/the-blue-mind-rx-water-is-medicine.html
Filmmaker Izenburg says surfing heals trauma and stress several
ways. The ocean is
cathartic and as Bobby says, seems to wash negative emotions away. Surfers in the film describe being in “the
zone,” focused and completely in the present tense; they say this alleviates
their painful memories. Also that
surfing simply exhausts them - insomnia is one of the most insidious aspects of
PTSD. “Surfing,” he says, “is a drug
free sleep aid.”
I write
here each week about our Blue Theology Ministry, where we encourage folks to
heal the ocean, and learn how the ocean can heal us. When youth and adults
spend a day or a week at our Pacific Grove Mission Station we share how we can
heal the ocean of the damaging effects of climate change, pollution,
overfishing and other human caused injuries.
But we also encourage all people to experience the healing power of the
ocean in their own lives, by walking along the shore, as Jesus and so many holy
ones have, or even by diving in and feeling the power and uplifting awe of the
deep. Perhaps we should offer “surfing
as a spiritual practice!”
In my
own much easier life, I too benefit from that Blue Ocean Rx. When life gets hard, there’s always the
ocean.
_____________
Bluetheology.com. I write here and on Facebook every Wednesday. Our summer service trips and pilgrimages in
Pacific Grove are almost full, but think/pray about an overnight, with a spiritual
visit to the Aquarium and a walk by the sea.
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